22nd-23rd May 2004 Flight to San Pedro Sula, Honduras (via Miami), followed by bus to La Ceiba & flight to Roatan island (chosen as it involved 3 hours less wait than a flight to Utila island). 24th-30th May A week´s diving at one of the cheapest places to dive on the planet, costing a staggering $15 per dive with West End Divers - new equipment, excellent service, excellent divemasters, excellent visibility, no or little current - the perfect place for macro-photography if only we had a camera with us! Hired one for a day, but no macro lens. Got kicked out of our hotel after 2 days (we´d clearly haggled too well - the owner "claimed" that someone else had booked the room for $25 instead of the $15 we were paying. Walked down the road a bit and found a fantastic spacious apartment (fridge, microwave, coffee-maker.. backpacking? Hmmm!) at Mariposa Lodge, haggled to $25. Oh, and hammock!!! Couldn´t fault it apart from the cockerel in the morning! Weather: sunny, calm, winds gradually increasing through the week. Beach: sandy. Water: bath-temperature. Thoroughly relaxed! 31st May-2nd June Took the ferry to Utila island, via La Ceiba, to try to see some of the rumoured Whale Sharks. Best chance is when calm, when the boats can locate them via seagulls feeding on fish that feed on something that whale sharks feed on! Spotted 7/8 days previous week, but not "yesterday". As suspected, wind now too strong, waves too choppy, and we didn´t see any Whale Sharks! Utila Dive Center, reputedly a PADI 5-star resort, couldn´t have been more of a contrast with West End Divers: old, worn equipment, divemasters still under training, and generalised chaos! Took two days of it and decided that with the weather not improving, we´d have to find Whale Sharks somewhere else in the world. 2nd-4th June Left Utila for Honduran mainland, and headed for Copan for some Mayan ruins. Sadly missed out on a visit to Santa Rosa de Copan cigar factory - had to make do with sampling their wares instead. 5th-7th June Departed Copan for Guatemala.