7th January 2004 To Argentina (following 22hr coach from Porto Alegre) and a whistlestop tour of Buenos Aires. The Tango show was entertaining, lots of antique shops in the arty quarter, and a pleasant square in which to consume the local beer. Then down to Trelew (Welsh settlement) from where we did day trips to: - Peninsula Valdes, for Sea lion & elephant seal colonies, and some penguins. - Punta Tombo for one of the largest colonies of magellanic penguins (200,000, though didn´t personally count them). Very cute little critters. 13th January 2004 Then coach (more hours) to Rio Gallegos (changing just after Comodoro Rivadaria) and swiftly on to El Calafate, arriving yesterday Mon 12th Jan. Today did a trip to see the Perito Moreno Glacier. Very impressive, rising 80m above the lake, and stretches across to meet land again (after years of people thinking it was receding). 14th January 2004 Just come back from boat trip to Upsala glacier and others (Spegazzini) - spectacular ice formations on the icebergs that fell off the glacier and are now floating down the lake! + video footage of bits falling off Speg. glacier. 15th January 2004 Was 6 hours delayed and dusty bus journey to El Chalten (N of El Calafate) then 7 hour route march to see mount Fitz Roy (ascending 600m and back down again) before the sun set and we couldn´t see our way back! Made it back to E.C. just - got torch out as it was getting dim, but didn´t need it in the end. 16th January 2004 Glacier trek on Torre Glacier, with beautiful views to Cerro Torre. On with the crampons and a bit of ice-climbing. Oh, and 8 hours trekking (4 there, 4 back). Now exhausted and catching flight to Ushuaia. 17th January 2004 Bus from Calafate (complete with 2 punctures), then fly to Ushuaia (southern tip - Tierra del Fuego) for a couple of days. 18th January 2004 Ushuaia shut, except for Naval museum (interesting). 19th January 2004 (Mon) Attempted to book bus out of Ushuiaia. Earliest was Wednesday, but tickets only purchasable in person. Arrived at booking place to hear the guy in front book the last two seats. Booked bus for Thursday! 20th January 2004 Went to Ushuaia National Park. Some pleasant walks. Saw a couple of beaver dams and the destruction of trees surrounding them. The result of some escapees of an attempt to introduce the fur trade to Ushuaia. Tried some "Pan del indio" (fungus growing on trees, once used as staple food source by indigenous indians) - needed some ketchup! 21st January 2004 Finally succumbed to a cold. Spent a leisurely day resting, then to Museo al fin del Mundo. 22nd January 2004 Early start (5:00am!) to catch bus for Punta Arenas (Chile), via a couple of Argentine cities.